Identity Theft

This will probably be one of the most challenging posts I’ve ever attempted to write because in all truth, I don’t think we really still know what actually happened to my daughter’s online identity, let alone wholly knowing how it happened, but I’m going to try and explain the sequence of events as an alert to you all, and a reminder to us too!

Some background and a plausible explanation of why they got themselves into the situation they found themselves.

They’d been self-employed for a short while now, working as a freelancer, and had just submitted their first tax returns in that capacity.

They were working from home, with two young children with one under six months old, and both very demanding of their time.

The family is living in another family member’s house whilst they “do up” their new house.

They’re adept at multi-tasking (obviously too adept as it turns out) and is (as many of their age are able to do) capable of nestling their phone between chin and shoulder whilst doing other tasks!

What happened next!

She had a phone call purporting to come from HMRC (we’re presuming this was just a fortuitous coincidence from the fraudster’s point of view – they had no way of knowing the employment status of the family member) – saying that they had a refund owing. As explained above she thought this was quite possibly the case as she had just completed a tax return – again an unhappy coincidence! She was told to click on a link in a text message to complete the process of getting the refund. She had their youngest child on her hip, was preparing a meal and was “distracted”. She filled-in the required information from the link!!!!

Agh! No!

Shortly afterwards (the same day) she presented her credit card at a supermarket and payment was refused. She realised something was wrong. She found she didn’t have access to her online banking. She contacted the bank by phone. The bank “supposedly” froze the account there and then but it was apparent that at least two transfers of money had been made to someone who was a Payee in her account – why? That’s the clever bit of the scam, I’ll explain later!

More payments appeared to have been made … help!!!

How could this be? The account was frozen … wasn’t it?

Get the family involved!

Having a son who’s an IT expert comes in useful, especially if he lives on the other side of the world! He worked through the night (day) in securing as many of her accounts as he could. Changing passwords, which were admittedly rather weak and used more than once (should have listened to Dad) – but he had no idea just how much data had been downloaded, or indeed just how much they had to start with as a result of perhaps a previous “pwned” event.

Having another local son who’s also very practical and logical helps also. He suggested that she contact the payee and tell them about the payment and request it be refunded. What transpired next turns out to be the “clever” part of the scam, although on this occasion it wasn’t conducted very expertly because they attempted multiple payments to the same payee. The payee confirmed that they’d had this payment, wondered what it was and had been a bit puzzled as to why Mr X had contacted them and requested a refund to a bank account because “he’d made a mistake”.

This was obviously NOT the same account as that from which the payment had originated and turned out to be the way the scammers were hoping to transfer funds from the hi-jacked bank account to one of their own! Fortunately, my son’s suggestion alerted the payee and the payee advised their bank NOT to transfer the money.

Phew! How did this all happen when the bank account was supposed to be frozen?

The key to this scam was getting control of my daughter’s mobile phone number. She didn’t realise it immediately, but soon became aware that it had been “stolen” through a scam called SIM swapping. This usually is done by a seemingly distressed person going into a mobile phone shop and pleading for a new SIM with a phone number “because their phone has been stolen” and “it’s absolutely imperative they have their number back immediately as there’s something very important happening right now”.  This is described here.

Why do they want to do this? Because they can transfer calls made to the rightful owner of the phone to their own phone.

Why do they want to do this? Because they can then request the bank account to be unfrozen, and also use their access to the phone number for any number of authorisation features.

And what is more they can lock you out of your phone accounts.

How did they do this in this case? Well GiffGaff is an online service provider and they have stated that they did everything they were supposed to do to authenticate the request for a SIM swap – but it is evident that there are serious weaknesses in their processes. They have stated they are looking at this for the future. Just Google “GiffGaff SIM swap Fraud” to see what is returned – it’s frightening!

So what happened next, and was there a happy ending?

Well, believe it or not, even with a personal visit to the bank and assurances that no more payments would be made, the bank did allow the account to be unfrozen and transfers out of her account were attempted. A second visit to the bank resulted in heartfelt apologies being made and offered over the way their fraud department had handled the problem and a complaint being raised by the branch against their own department on my daughter’s behalf – I don’t know the outcome of that!

Well, there was a happy financial outcome. Thanks to the prompt action and thinking of my local son, the initial transfer was halted. It’s not conclusive whether my daughter could have received compensation (as detailed here) as she was the instigator of the problem through her own mistake (the HMRC phone call). All other attempted transfers were eventually trapped by the bank and refunded to her – so no financial loss.

However …

Much more significant than the potential financial loss was what it did to her confidence. She insisted on getting a new phone, because she wouldn’t accept any advice from any family member (especially me) that there wasn’t anything on her phone that wouldn’t continue to monitor her.

She also lost all confidence in using any online systems – which up until then she’d been very reliant upon.

She also lost a lot of confidence in herself as she realised just how gullible (but extremely unfortunate) she’d been … but the positive side of this, and the main reason for sharing this is that she’ll be much more careful in the future!

Postscript.

We don’t know whether the identity theft side of this will ever be resolved. We all know that a huge amount of information is held on us on the internet. We all know that some websites have had their security breached and identity information stolen. We don’t know what was held by others about my daughter. She had a public profile, they now have the potential to add even more information to their database about her if they had managed to download information from her email (and other) accounts before my son locked them down. We just don’t know.

There was a mysterious book that arrived at her house with a cryptic message in it.

There have been some scamming emails purporting to come from her since this event.

She now uses a different email account.

We just don’t know whether these are connected to the fraud event or are just strange random occurrences … and I suppose we never will know just how much additional information they may have downloaded – emails, photographs, documents, etc. etc. Very frightening.

NatWest Guide to Fraud
Some privacy tips for iPhone users.

Progressing my photography

I spent a day with David Taylor on the North East coast near Craster and Bamburgh Castle in Northumberland. Here are my notes from the day, and David’s comments (in italics). They’re mainly for me, but might be of interest to others.

David explained the Live view setting ON and his use of Creative Style as a means of improving what you saw on the monitor and viewfinder as these displays can only represent the image as a JPEG. He explained why he used Neutral Creative Style (rather than Standard) with the two settings of Exposure and Saturation wound down to -3 so that the highlights would not be blown on the display. Really useful tips.

I use the Neutral Creative Style – with colour and saturation set to -3 – as a guide to the range of tones that will likely be present in the resulting Raw file. Using a high-contrast setting like Vivid is more likely to show highlight or shadow clipping and so lead to unnecessary tweaking of the exposure. That said, Standard isn’t too contrasty so it’s a good fallback (and doesn’t make the viewfinder display – when Live view setting is ON – look grey and flat.)

We talked about Auto ISO – we came to the conclusion that it might be useful when just walking about, or when shooting handheld, but definitely should not be used when shooting on a Tripod.

Auto ISO. Yes! Leave well alone and stick to a fixed ISO setting when using a tripod. Only use it when handholding, particularly when light level may fluctuate. (Such as moving between inside and outside.)

Similarly, using Auto White Balance might not necessarily be a sound strategy. He suggested using a setting such as Daylight because that way you know what the base-level (ie Kelvin degrees) White Balance is that you’re working from. AWB would always vary. I’d never thought of that. Really useful tip, working from a known base-level is a very sensible strategy.

AWB works most of the time. However, it isn’t a constant and can be fooled if a scene is dominated by one or colours. A lot of green – in woodland for instance – can fool AWB into adding magenta for example. I suspect AWB will get more and more sophisticated in years to come, but it’s not there quite yet. I use Daylight as it’s a ‘known’ quantity that I can work from in post-production.

We looked at using Manual Focus and finding a way of ensuring that you have sharp focus front to back using peeking levels on the camera (Sony term). Set f-stop wide open. Focus on near foreground – check distant view for sharpness. Then do the Background. The result as you switch between the two will probably end-up about one-third of the way in. This is why when using Auto-focus one-third into the scene is often quoted as the best place to point the camera.

I typically want to use a mid-range aperture – f/8 or f/11 – if I can. Smaller apertures can start to cause diffraction, which – although you get more depth of field – actually causes the image to look soft. To maximise the depth of field at a given aperture I first select that aperture. I then switch to MF and magnify the image at the bottom of the screen – which should be the foreground – and focus there. I then magnify image at the furthest point – typically the horizon – and check sharpness there. If it’s sharp then all is good and the photo can be taken. If not, I tweak the focusing until it is sharp and then check the foreground sharpness again. I repeat this until I’ve maximised the amount of DOF. This is easier with wide angle lenses as you get more DOF at a given aperture than with a longer lens. You may find with a +50mm lens that you either have to stop down further, or it’s impossible to have complete foreground-to-background sharpness and you need to compromise. (Typically in this instance I’d make sure that what I want sharp is sharp and worry less about the background.)

He suggested I use flexible spot with Auto Focus and the touch pad on monitor. I have yet to really get into doing this – but then again, there’s so much of the A7r III that I’ve really not yet got into!!!

Flexible spot (S) is the simplest way to ensure that focus is precise in AF mode. It’s not one I’d use when shooting moving subjects though – I’d then switch to Zone or Wide.

He suggested setting up My Menu with some of the Common Menu Settings you need to change and access regularly, eg Format Memory Card. Again, I haven’t done that yet – I really must. Having an easy way to go between back-button and shutter Auto Focus would be really useful.

Assigning commonly-used menu options to the My Menu screen is a big time saver. I’ve got Format and Sensor clean (amongst others) set on my A6400, and wish I could do the same on my A7R II.

His advice to stitch panoramas in portrait mode and overlap by a third every time is really good. I’ve done this now a couple of times and the results are really impressive. Doing it this way leaves more space top and bottom to crop image. You should also use Manual mode for panoramas as that way you can ensure correct exposure levels that will remain constant through shots that you’re going to stitch. I’ve now bought an L-Bracket which more easily allows you to mount your camera in portrait mode on a tripod. Really neat idea!

Panorama shooting. Perfect! That’s exactly how I do it.

We discussed the use of the two card slots in the camera and came to the conclusion that doing a back-up simultaneously was a good idea, and not to use RAW+JPEG, just Uncompressed RAW. Also discussed D-Range Optimiser – only of value for JPEG, so ignore and switch-off. Both of these I’ve done!!! Cunning plan!!

Back-ups are always good! D-Range optimiser is very definitely only for JPEGs so yes, ignore.

We discussed and now I understand why setting Zebras to a higher level means that you don’t apply Exposure Compensation so much as Highlights don’t get shown so much. Cunning plan!!

Zebras. Using a higher value – 90-100% means that the Zebra pattern is only shown when highlights are in danger of clipping. Lower values can fool you into underexposing as the warning is activated for darker tones such as skin.

I was shown, and then realised that you can use the DISP button with the eyepiece to cycle through to see histogram. Duh! You can’t have enough tuition, especially with someone who has the same camera to you.

Use the DISP button both in playback and shooting – LCD and viewfinder – to display different levels of shooting information.

We talked about Back Button Focus – I decided that I was going to give it another go. There may be a case for only using it on a tripod; perhaps not for “walking around” and handheld when you need rapid access to the shot. This I’ve done and the combination of flexible spot and back button is working well for me currently, but I do need a quick way of moving from one mode to the other.

Back button focusing is one of those things you either use all the time or not at all. It’s too easy to get things wrong if you use it for one type of shooting but not another. I’ve done that before… I leave it activated for however I use my camera. However, it’s very much a personal choice.

As an aside, as we chatted and we talked about gear, David mentioned that he uses Meike extension tubes to take Macro photographs when on a photo shoot, rather than a specialist macro photography mission. Great idea, I’ve just had some delivered!

Meike extension tubes are a very cheap way to add close focusing to the 55mm lens and macro capabilities to lenses shorter than 35mm. The build quality isn’t great, but it’s far cheaper than buying a dedicated macro lens.

Great day; I learnt a lot. I hope to spend more time with David when I’m next in the North East.