Getting photos to the cloud(s) and back

This article is prompted by a combination of a casual enquiry about sending photos from your iPhone to Google Photos (hosted on a Google Drive), and my own discovery that I was backing-up iPhone photos to BOTH iCloud and Google Photos.

Observation one. Google Photos and iCloud Photos don’t work in quite the same way. Whereas you can access the Photos you may have stored on Apple’s iCloud storage from icloud.com through the iCloud Photos app, you cannot access Google Photos from drive.google.com directly – you have to go to photos.google.com to access them. Google Photos uses up some of your Google Drive storage – you get 15Gb “for free” with a Google account – but it’s a standalone application, in the same way as Google Mail is. It’s an important distinction. Google provides you with applications which make use of their cloud storage, Apple provides cloud storage alongside access to applications which use that storage and which synchronises back to devices.

The iCloud window {Access to all Apple applications and cloud storage}
The Google Drive window {NB No access to Photos, or Mail}
The Google Photos window {separate from Google Drive}

Observation Two. This article concentrates principally on Google and Apple, because they are the two principal players in the Camera and Cloud Storage space. There are other cloud storage solutions on which you can store photos, eg Microsoft’s OneDrive, and Dropbox. I will only refer to these briefly at the end of this article. There are undoubtedly other cloud storage solutions, but I won’t be writing about them.

Observation Three. Anything I write about the link between Camera and Photos on an Android/Google system is second-hand knowledge, and I cannot verify it!

Observation Four – the final one. This article does not seek to cover the general topic of transferring photos from a phone to your computer. This is more than adequately covered in this article. I suggest you read it too.

Not wishing to be dismissive, but just because it’s so straightforward – I’m going to discuss Google Photos first. If you have an Android phone and thereby have a Google account, you automatically have 15Gb of cloud storage and the two are linked, and by default any photos you take on your phone are backed-up to your Google account. This is described well in the Google Support article. A couple of things are worth highlighting however: a) you can switch-off automatic back-up and synchronisation of your photos, in which case all backups would need to be done manually; b) you should carefully choose the “quality” of the photos you back-up – they may not be the same as that of the photo on your device; and c) it would appear that you could backup photos to a different account from your main one, thus adding to the free 15Gb you get with each account. [Alternatively, for £15.99 a year you could get an additional 100Gb of storage from Google. If you aren’t an Apple user this is definitely worth considering.]

It’s not that much more difficult if you want to save photos from your iOS (iPhone or iPad) device to the Google cloud storage. Again the Google Support article describes the process and the options quite well.

Similarly if you’ve transferred photos to your computer (eg from a camera SD-card), then Google’s got you covered to back-up and sync to their Cloud storage in this article. You should nominate a folder on your computer that Google Drive will monitor for newly added files which will then be backed-up and synced to either Google Drive, or to Google Photos, or both, depending upon the option(s) you’ve chosen.

Note (4) – you might get two copies if you don’t uncheck “Sync with Google Drive”

For this to work however, you do need to be sure you’ve a) installed the Google Drive on your computer, and b) you’ve set the preferences the way you want them. In my case, since I’ve increased the amount of Google storage I have, I’ve chosen to Mirror a folder (in itself called Google Drive) – then both the folder on the computer, and the one in the cloud should be exactly the same. A mirror in fact. Anything I add to (or edit on) my local Google Drive will be copied to my Google Drive in the cloud.

So we turn next to the Apple ecosystem. [I should feel more confident here, but as you may have noted that I disclosed at the start of this article that I was doing something extremely stupid and not noticing my idiocy.] Here the support page on Apple Photos and iCloud I think really does a good job of explaining your choices and how to set up backup to their cloud storage. I don’t think I can improve on it. But what if you’ve got Google Photos installed as well on your iOS device? This is where I made my foolish mistake. I enabled Backup and Sync on my iPhone and so I got TWO copies of every photo – one in my Google storage in Google Photos and the other in my iCloud storage. Duh!!!

Disabling the Backup and Sync left me with an image which was shared locally between the Google Photos and Apple Photos apps. How could I get that image (or group of images) onto Google Photos to perhaps share with friends or family?

It turns out that there are two reasonably easy ways of doing this. By enabling iCloud Photos on the phone (or tablet) …

Set iCloud Photos to On

… I can then download from iCloud to a folder on my computer which I can then upload to Google Photos from. Really rather simple and not a use case for Google Photos Backup and Sync to be employed.

Alternatively, I could go into the Google Photos app, select the image I want to send to Google Photos in the cloud and Share it by getting a link and then sending myself a message. The act of sharing it copies the image to the cloud, from which I can then add it albums, etc.

Using either of these approaches allows you then to obtain a link for the album which you can then Share to a list of users, or obtain a link for public sharing.

Once you get the photos onto Google Photos the fun starts. It’s not intuitive what happens when you decide you want to delete them either from the cloud, or from your device. In fact it’s downright confusing. I’ve written about this before and life is too short to repeat anything that I believe still to be correct. Best of luck!!!

The situation with deleting photos from Apple Photos and iCloud Photos is slightly more straightforward and is detailed below …

I can confirm that deleting a file on iCloud Drive from the Files app on an iPhone will delete it from icloud.com and your iCloud drive on MacOS as well – which is what you would expect should happen.”

However, the situation of Photos stored in the Apple Photos app (on iPhone or iPad) and iCloud Photos should also be noted – for completeness.

I’m not going to write anything; just provide three links to follow to clarify …

How to Delete Photos From iPhone but Not iCloud

How to Delete Photos From iCloud (While Keeping Them on Your iPhone)

and

How to recover a deleted photo or video on your iPhone or iPad

If you want to delete a Photo from both device and iCloud Photos. Just ensure Sync is left on and then you can delete the image from either the device or icloud.com

Having confirmed all this, and having more storage space on iCloud, and understanding that sharing Photo Albums is about to come to Apple Photos, and having checked that Sync’ing does seem to be working for iCloud Photos (from my Apple devices), I checked my Google Photos settings settings and switched-off Back up and Sync. I was doing far too many cloud backups!!! Always worth checking. If I want a Photo to be on Google Photos (for sharing for instance), I will now Upload, not rely on syncing.

It goes without saying that keeping it all in the Apple ecosystem (for me) makes a lot of sense, and with the ability to share albums on the way – it’s not yet as sophisticated as the Google Photo Albums service – I may transition away from Google Photos altogether in time.

If you’re a PC Windows user with an iPhone, then a solution is beginning to appear that enables you to use the Windows Photo application with iCloud. You can install iCloud for Windows on your PC and then you should be able to manage your iPhone photos from your desktop.

For Dropbox users, you can setup an automatic upload of photos to the service. They even give you a bit more free storage if you enable this, or at least they used to!

This dummy’s guide to printing from Lightroom

After years of thinking “should I”, I’ve taken my first steps into seriously thinking about printing some of my photographs. Until now I’ve “got by” with printing some images out on my HP Color LaserJet CP1515n, but it’s getting older, and the cost of replacement cartridges is getting more and more expensive, and the images although satisfactory are not ones I’d frame and put on the wall. So I took the plunge and decided after doing a lot of research that I would get an Epson EcoTank ET-8550. What this post seeks to do is to cement in my mind what I have learnt about printing from Lightroom to this new printer. [I accept this might not be the best workflow to use, but it’s the one I want to start with.]

Along the way I’ve learnt a little about Soft Proofing (but have often been thwarted in my rather pathetic attempts to understand how it works – I think I do now), grappled a little with Color Management (but am still left with a high degree of uncertainty), and struggled with ICC Profiles. However, I’ve found a very helpful website – Northlight Images run by Keith Cooper – and that site and Keith (who’s been very helpful) will be a very valuable resource to help me on my journey. But first things first. To start with the problem … and work towards a solution [maybe not the best one, but one to get me going … I expect to re-visit this post on more than one occasion].

Misconception: I’d set my Color Space in my camera to Adobe RGB thinking that it was important to have a consistent color space through my workflow. Wrong. This is only of significance if I’m shooting in JPEG; I’m not, I’m using Uncompressed RAW + JPEG. In fact the significance of my misconception only struck home when I searched for the Color Space in the EXIF settings of an image and found it was missing, and then I realised (a bit like Profiles and White Balance), that when shooting in RAW these are all changeable in post-processing.

Duh!

So … Don’t worry about the camera settings when you’re considering printing, unless you’re going to shoot solely using JPEG.

I’ve imported the images into Lightroom Classic, what’s the next thing I should consider? Well … getting the MacBook Pro (2021 M1) and external Benq monitor displaying the same colours would be a good start! One of the reasons I chose the Benq PD2725U (apart from the fact it’s a really good monitor) was that it had a dedicated M-book Color mode, so after selecting that as the Color mode and setting the Display Brightness on the MacBook Pro to 50:50 and changing the Brightness and Contrast of the Benq monitor to 50% I got a good match between the monitor and laptop.

I’m beginning to think I’m “cooking with gas” (note to self, that phrase will have to change).

System Preferences for MacBook Pro mirroring to BenQ monitor

So that’s got the screen appearance correct.

Do I need to consider the Color Space I use then in Lightroom?

No … Lightroom uses ProPhoto RGB internally and color space is only of importance when you export out of Lightroom where you have the choice of one of three [with acknowledgement to Digital Photography School – text in italics below] …

ProPhotoRGB: ProPhoto RGB is the largest of the three. It roughly matches the range of colours that a digital camera sensor can capture.

Adobe RGB (1998): Adobe RGB (1998) is smaller than ProPhoto RGB, but larger than the next choice, sRGB. It roughly matches the colour gamut of CMYK printers used to print books and magazines.

sRGB: sRGB is the smallest colour space of the three. It represents the colour space that most monitors are able to display.

So, attempting to things as simple as possible, this is how they should be used when you’re exporting images out of Lightroom …

sRGB: Use when exporting photos to be displayed online, printed at most commercial labs, or printed with most inkjet printers. In short, if in doubt, use sRGB.

Note: Lightroom’s Web module automatically sets the colour space of exported files to sRGB.

Adobe RGB (1998): Use only if requested. If you’re not sure, ask. If you’ve been asked to submit photos to a magazine, for example, then ask them which colour space is required. It will probably be Adobe RGB (1998). Submitting photos to a stock library? Again, it will probably be Adobe RGB (1998). It’s the colour space most likely to be used for commercial purposes.

You would also use this colour space if you have an inkjet printer that utilizes the Adobe RGB (1998) colour space, or you are using a lab that accepts and prints photos with that profile.

ProPhoto RGB: Use when exporting a photo file to be edited in another program such as Photoshop or a plug-in. The file should be exported as a 16-bit TIFF or PSD file. There is little point in using the ProPhoto RGB colour space with 8 bit files, as they don’t contain enough bit depth to utilize the full colour range.

Note: If you import a JPEG or TIFF file into Lightroom, it uses the file’s embedded colour profile. If there is no colour profile attached, it assumes that it’s an sRGB file. If you choose an alternate colour space when you export the file, Lightroom converts it.

But I want to Print, not Export, my images. This is where we have to move to looking at Printer Profiles, the delights of Smart Proofing in the Develop Module, and of course how we use the Print Module in Lightroom.

To do this you work from the Paper and the Ink, used on a Printer, through a Profile, back to the Software – Lightroom. So the starting point is what is called an ICC Printer Profile. Prints are calibrated for the paper and ink on different printers to produce these profiles. It is possible to do the calibration yourself, but that’s a step far too far for me. I’ll stick to paper that has a profile already provided for the printer I have. Simples!!!

I had terrible difficulty in finding/obtaining the ICC Printer Profiles for Epson Paper on my Ecotank ET-8550. Eventually, with a little assistance from Epson (who were struggling to find a solution to the problem), we stumbled upon the answer, which I submitted to The Lightroom Queen forum for Lightroom Classic, and which I reproduce below …

Lightroom VersionLightroom Classic version: 11.2. Operating System macOS 12 Monterey

A solution to a problem/issue, not a query, but one that needs recording and hopefully will help reduce the stress of others. This has bugged me for several weeks!!! 

The ICC profiles for Epson appear to be installed in System/Library/Printers/Epson, not in Users/myuserid/Library/ etc.

However, and this is the crucial thing, you do need to do an additional step when installing the software on Monterey (apparently). [This I got from Epson Technical Support.]

1. Goto Systems Preferences … > Printers & Scanners

2. Press ‘+’ and select your Printer …

3. Click in the Use pull-down box and Click on Select Software …

4. Select your printer (the ET-8550) again, and press OK

This will create a seemingly duplicate version of your printer. Delete the old one and all should now be well. The profiles should now appear in the Print Module and in Smart Proofing, and in ColorSync which they don’t after an initial install.

[ColorSync is an Apple Utility that enables you to see (and repair) Profiles installed on your computer. Before I did the steps described above, I couldn’t see any Epson ICC profiles installed on my machine. This video was also of some considerable help in pointing me towards a solution.]

I’m not going to cover Smart Proofing in this post which you can employ using the ICC Profile for the Paper/Printer that you’re using, simulating the finished print on the screen against the original image, as it is well treated in the following articles, and a couple of videos …

Soft Proofing in Lightroom and Photoshop: What is it and how is it done?

What is Soft Proofing in Lightroom?

WHAT in the world is SOFT PROOFING in Lightroom? (video), and

Guide to Simple Soft Proofing in Lightroom (video)

So … on we move. We’ve got an image that we’ve Soft Proofed in the Develop module and now we move to the Print module to print the Proof copy – a Visual Copy of the original image that we’ve created in the Smart Proofing process in the Develop module.

Let’s assume that we just want to print a single image to fill a sheet of paper. You need to select Maximise Size in the Template Browser on the left-hand side of the screen.

Moving to the right-hand side of the screen you set the print up the way you want it to appear (I’m not discussing the details of that here). You move to the Print Job panel …

… making sure that you have chosen the same Profile and settings as you used in Smart Proofing.

Next you need to select the Paper Size for your chosen printer and the orientation of the image from the button in the bottom left-hand side of the screen …

You then move to the Printer button in the bottom right-hand side of the screen …

Preset for Epson Premium Semi-Gloss A4 Borderless saved

… and hopefully chose a Preset you’ve previously created for the printer and paper, or create a new one going successively through Layout (as above), Colour Matching …

No Colour Matching as we’re using a ICC Profile

… Paper Handling …

… and finally Print Settings (just to check things are the way you expect them to be) …

… and then you click on Print, and your printer should whirr into action.

And that’s it!