Tag: 2026

  • Welsh Highland Railway and Caernarfon

    Welsh Highland Railway and Caernarfon

    If I was to be honest, this day was what the trip was all about (apart from the T1 bus ride of course!!). Ever since I became aware of the track laying for the WHR a few years back, I marvelled at the endeavour and hoped one day to be able to ride from Porthmadog to Caernarfon through Eryri.

    The day started well. I got into conversation with a nice lady who advised me on the choice of a cafe (the Port) where I could get a coffee and croissant near to the station. I had decided after my supper the previous evening not to take breakfast at the Golden Fleece. The bus came promptly, and to time – I’d only had to walk about 100m to get to it, and within 12 mins I was in the cafe having a very nice Flat White. The croissant could have been better though. It was then just a short walk to the station and plenty of time to look around the shop, watch all the comings and goings of trains, shunting carriages around and the like and generally get in the mood for the trip ahead.

    The Welsh Highland route starts from the quayside station for both this and the Ffestiniog Railway in Porthmadog, crosses the main line track and then hugs the west side of the Afon Glaslyn giving extended views over Traeth Mawr towards the mountains of Moelwyn Mawr. As the valley narrows the track passes through a tunnel before following and then crossing the cascading river up to Beddgelert, where the train stops, but unfortunately not long enough to alight and take photos.

    From Beddgelert there’s a steady climb up to Rhyd-Ddu with some sharp bends as the track follows the valley side of the Avon Colwyn up past Llyn-y-Gader. A short stop at Rhyd-Ddu (a passing place) and we follow the valley side above Llyn Cwellyn to the Snowdon Ranger station – a request stop for walkers who want to climb Yr Wydffa.

    From here the descent to Caernarfon begins alongside the Avon Gwyrfai, past forestry, through Betws Garmon and Waunfawr before turning sharply west towards Dinas – the former junction of the mainline that went south to Criccieth. From there the line uses the old disused trackbed to make its way to the quayside, and the station complex at Caernarfon.

    [You should be able to enlarge the maps to examine detail which unlike my printed maps do show the line of the railway!!]

    The engine that pulled the train was one of two that had formerly been used on narrow gauge railways in South Africa. This one had its livery changed to WHR Green – the other one was still in its original black as you can see from the photo taken at Waunfawr station.

    I soon realised an alternative use for my camera lens cleaning wipes – to clean the smuts off the window. I was fortunate to have got myself in the back carriage of the train for the journey to Caernarfon and along with a German tourist we swapped sides and lent out the windows to take our photos.

    The images above are a collection of very many taken on the trip and include the last four taken on the way back. As I was not in as favourable seat for the return journey I decided to take more video clips and these are included at the bottom of this post.

    So … what do you do when you’ve just under 2 hours to kill in Caernarfon? Well … after you’ve taken a picture of the castle – but not the touristy one; found a suit of armour which later made me think of Count Binface; I searched for a pub. Guess what, I found one which served not only Bass and Directors Summer Ale, but also Hancock’s HB which must be my next to favourite beer after Timothy Taylor’s Landlord. So I behaved myself, restricted myself to just one pint and a packet of crisps, and then it was back to the train.

    A collection of video clips taken on the Welsh Highland Railway trip from Porthmadog to Caernarfon and return.

    Nothing much else to report. A local bus arrived very soon after we got back to the station in Porthmadog and took me back to Tremadog and The Golden Fleece Inn where I had a “naked” burger (one without the bun) which was significantly better than my meal the previous night. I also finished off the bottle of Pinot Noir!

  • Ffestiniog Railway, and time to kill in Blaenau Ffestiniog

    Ffestiniog Railway, and time to kill in Blaenau Ffestiniog

    When I’d been planning this trip, I had originally thought to just do a one-way trip from Porthmadog to Caernarfon, after doing a return trip on the Ffestiniog Railway, and spending a night in Caernarfon, or Bangor. The intention then was to do a there and back trip on the Vale of Conway line from Llandudno.

    Just goes to show that you can’t underestimate the role of planning and careful examination of timetables!! It became apparent that a return trip to Caernarfon, two-nights stay in Tremadog, and a single trip to Blaenau Ffestiniog and then a one-way ticket to Llandudno on the Vale of Conway was both a much easier, more logical and actually cheaper option – with the added advantage of two trips on the Welsh Highland Railway.

    So here I was again in Porthmadog at the Ffestiniog and Welsh Highland Railway station having a coffee and a teacake in Spooner’s – their cafe. Once again I’d decided not to take the breakfast at the Golden Fleece Inn.

    The Ffestiniog Railway was the original venture in Porthmadog, and they’d had to re-model the station quite considerably to accommodate the Welsh Highland line as well. As I was a one-way passenger, I was pointed towards a special carriage for those of my intention. I was the only passenger in the carriage, and I had indicated when booking that I was considering getting off at Tanygrisiau and walking up to the quarry, Cwmorthin waterfall and lake. After talking to the Guard on the train, and thinking a bit more about it, I decided not to be brave (or foolish) and just do the straight trip to Blaenau Ffestiniog and then the TfW train down to Llandudno.

    I was becoming much wiser and less adventurous!!!

    The images above give a flavour of the lovely train trip with fantastic vistas to look at all through the journey – and the sun was shining as well. Perhaps the most interesting part of the trip was the loop at Dduallt, where after you leave the station, the track loops back on itself to achieve elevation before crossing the track and proceeding to Blaenau Ffestiniog.

    The entrance to Blaenau Ffestiniog – quite impressive!

    Slate steps
    Blaenau Ffestiniog

    So I arrived in Blaenau Ffestiniog. The narrow gauge railway shares the station with the mainline service, so potentially no problems about rushing to get a connection … only there wasn’t one. This was the only point in the trip where I’d not researched the connections and there was nearly a 2hr wait for a Vale of Conway train. If I’d wanted a bus, no problem. There was a bus waiting in the bus station next to the railway station which could have taken me to Bangor, but no train. Still, there was plenty of time to get lunch at a pub and have another pint – perhaps because I was near to their “homeland” I might even be able to get an Old Tom on draught (Robinsons of Stockport).

    But no. The only pub was closed for renovation, as was the Hotel. I walked the length of Blaenau Ffestiniog looking for one, nothing to be found, and I wasn’t going to pay £2 to get a guest membership of the Royal Welsh Fusiliers Club for a pint of John Smiths!! So it was back to the station, a wary descent of some broken step paving stones and a long wait! Whilst I waited a TfW ground staff worker came by to cut some grass. Not the best thing for me as Very High Grass Pollen had been forecast anyway, So I put a mask on to reduce the possibility of an asthma attack. See … I was prepared!!

    It was nice to chat to someone though and I think it was about then that I realised how few people I’d actually talked to. The staff in the Athro Lounge in Aberystwyth, Richard, the gentleman on the Talyllyn Railway who I also saw and talked to the following day on the WHR, the barman in the Black Boy Inn in Caernarfon and the Guard on the train that day.

    Eventually the train arrived and I was on my way again.

    Blaenau Ffestiniog Station (main line)

    The Vale of Conway was an interesting experience. After emerging from a tunnel that seemed to go on for ever we began a downhill descent which prompted me to ask Perplexity whether there were any uphill gradients on the way down to Llandudno Junction. Apparently there were, but I didn’t notice them.

    The second part of the trip takes you down into the Vale of Conway past Betws-y-Coed and Llanrwst. It was just pleasant to be able to sit still, look out the window and not think about taking pictures, although I did have it in mind that it would be good to see if I could get a shot of the Castle and the tubular and suspension bridges. Perhaps as we approached Llandudno Junction there would be an opportunity?

    … and there was. The suspension bridge engineered by Thomas Telford to carry the London to Holyhead road, across the Afon Conwy stands alongside its more recent replacement and the tubular bridge designed by Robert Stephenson to carry rail traffic were both visible as was Conwy Castle from the train as it approached Llandudno Junction.

    Conway Castle
    Tubular & Suspension bridges

    Jenny and I are possibly going to return to Llandudno in the autumn, so there will be opportunities for us to explore these three wonderful structures.

    So I’d arrived in Llandudno. It was only a short walk from the station to The Parade where I found The Marine Hotel cloaked in scaffolding. Not the best start to my stay, I thought. Luckily, my room (which was minute with a shower that I could hardly get into, and could wash my hands in the sink if I was standing in the shower, or sitting on the toilet) faced out over the sea, and whilst being on the third floor (but with a lift), did not have any scaffold outside the window.

    I decided to go out for a walk, go to a recommended Fish’n’Chips restaurant – Tribells , and get my bearings. I was not impressed by Tribells. The chips were overcooked and the hake was overcooked at one end – an issue I recognise is a problem for blocky fish that requires a bit of frying to cook all the way through. However, it was expensive at £21 with a glass of Pinot.

    I walked towards the Great Orme looking for a pub that was rumoured to have Timothy Taylor Landlord, and I found it – The Snowdon, and I had two pints there before making my way back to The Marine.